Best Cat Food

Best Cat Food for a loving kitty

There are two things I hate about feeding my cat. One is left over soft cat food (oh sure, you can buy the little plastic lids to cover the rest and stick it in the fridge, but do you remember it's in there? When I clean out the refrigerator I usually find at least two) and the other is cleaning out the litter box.

The reason for an exceptionally full litter box is that most store bought cat food contains fillers ( read the bag, if the first few ingredients are wheat gluten or meal, put it back) which go right through kitty, and although leaves the cat feeling full, provides little nutrition. Your cat can eat all day and still not be getting the proper amount of nutrition.

Some cheaper brands on the store shelves are actually dangerous to give kitty. ''Alley Cat" brand has such a high ash content that it can cause urinary tract infections, which gone untreated can cause death. And while it's okay for humans to eat off brand foods, feeding your cat nothing but cheap kitty crunchies can cause ongoing health concerns.

So the best brands to buy for your cat are name brands that you are familiar with. Top name brand cat food must pass more rigorous testing than off brands because it is shipped nationally.

Eukanuba is by far the best premium cat food; at around $14.00 for a small, seven pound bag. While expensive, it contains real meats which are listed first on the ingredient label. Remember that cats are carnivores-they need meat. Thinking that it's okay for your cat to have cheap cat food because he supplements his diet with mice is erroneous thinking because rodents can make a cat sick and they're not catching them for a hot meal anyway, they're catching them because they are inherently hunters.

Better nutrition means no runny stools and less litter box mess. Because Eukanuba is one of the best you can feed your cat less, which will help offset the cost. However, if kitty is used to having a full bowl of food set out all the time for snacking, he may take awhile to get used to the new routine- so hide your shoes until he gets used to it!

Iams is another good brand. Once upon a time you could only purchase this brand from your vet but now it is available at the local grocery store. I like this brand because it is a little more affordable and comes in specific blends to suite kitty's needs. The formula for mature cats provides vitamins to help your cat's immune system stay strong. While corn grits and corn meal is listed third and fourth as ingredients, this brand contains rosemary oil and brewers yeast, which is good for your cat.

Science Diet lists brewer's rice and chicken as the first two ingredients. The rice helps digestion, and this product is made from more natural products than some of the other brand names, another good choice.

A quick word about soft cat food: along with the whole nasty storage part addressed in the beginning, soft cat food does not help your cat's teeth. Dry cat food helps scrape tartar away and is important to keep kitty's teeth healthy, and by the way, giving your cat milk or cream can cause diarrhea. A good rule of thumb is to buy premium dry cat food and feed according to the directions, keep a nice bowl of clean water available at all times, and smother them with love and cat nip.

Cat not eating

Cat not eating - What to do when your cat is not eating

From longhaired registered Persians to domestic mixed breeds called “tabbies”, cat lovers – present in more than one third of American households - know that felines are not just pets but friends and companions. When a cat lacks appetite or doesn’t eat, owners worry because cats are often members of the family.

Remember that unless a cat hasn’t been eating for several days, it’s unlikely there is a problem or medical issue. To understand why a feline friend isn’t eating, cat caregivers must be familiar with normal eating patterns. Cats are, as cat food commercials portray, finicky by nature. All foods are not part of a nutritious, healthy feline diet.

Cats are carnivores, which means that they are meat eaters. A cat doesn’t require fruits, vegetables or grains like their human companions and thrive on an all-meat diet. Table food or scraps should never be fed to cats. Nor should raw meats be allowed in the diet. Outdoor cats or cats allowed to range should be monitored so that they don’t eat raw meat. Hunters by nature, domestic cats will pounce on a mouse but don’t allow a pet to eat their prey.

Improper food is one of the reasons why cats might lack appetite. Stick with meat based cat foods. Never leave moistened dry food or canned out for more than one hour to prevent spoilage. Tainted food can taste strange and cause kitty to avoid another bite. Dry cat foods can be left in a dish for cats that prefer to nibble or feeding can happen at a specific time each day. Cats also require plenty of clean, fresh water so check to make sure that water dishes are full.

Cats are individuals and tastes vary. When a cat doesn’t eat, try a different flavor of food to tempt taste buds. Try a tuna flavor over a chicken blend or salmon over beef in gravy. Although cats like milk, it is not a necessary part of a healthy feline diet. If a cat gets too much milk, he may not be hungry and will not eat at feeding time.

Loss of appetite or not eating accompanied by other symptoms, however, may signal a medical issue. Dental problems often cause a loss of appetite simply because the mouth is sore. Check for other symptoms of mouth disorders such as bad breath, raised mouth sores, drooling, dark spots on molars, or bleeding gums. If any of these are present along with a change in eating patterns, it’s time to see the vet. He may diagnose gingivitis or peridonitis. Both are treatable.

Cats who have dined on raw liver could be suffering from Vitamin A toxicity. Liver is so rich in Vitamin A that even a small amount can be too much for feline bodies to assimilate. Too much raw meat of any type can leave to a thiamin deficiency as well. The best rule of thumb is to never feed raw meats. If raw meat has been eaten and symptoms are present beyond a few days, consult a veterinarian for treatment.

Common household items that homeowners take for granted can be poisonous to cats. The list of things that pose potential dangers to feline friends is long and includes coffee grounds, cigarette butts, poisonous plants, ant or roach traps, lawn and garden products (herbicides, fertilizers), automotive products, and lead paint. If poisoning is suspected, seek treatment immediately. To prevent accidental feline poisoning, remove dangers from cat level. Parents of young children who have childproofed their home have little to worry about and childless cat households might consider taking the same preventative steps.

Less common conditions that could be characterized by a lack of appetite include toxoplasma, a parasitical disease that is transmitted in raw meat. Again, never feed cat raw meats no matter what the origin.

Feline leukemia and other cancers are the most serious disease that could begin with a lack of appetite. Older cats are more prone to feline leukemia, which can be diagnosed only by a veterinarian. In most cases, additional symptoms would be present.

When in doubt and if more than a few days have passed without a cat eating, it’s time to visit the vet. Appropriate diagnosis and treatment are the best gift to give a beloved cat. Cat lovers are far from alone – more than 39 million cat owners give gifts to their felines each holiday season and more than 13 million celebrate their cat’s birthday. Cats are so special that the ancient Egyptians considered cats to be sacred. Charles Dickens, author of classic works that include Oliver Twist, A Christmas Carol, and A Tale of Two Cities, once wrote, “What greater gift than the love of a cat!”

Cats are special. If a cat isn’t eating, try a little coaxing with love and then seek professional advice to keep that companion nearby for years to come.

Pet Parrots

The Most Popular Parrot Species Chosen For Pet Parrots

As with most animals, the different parrot types have certain characteristics but overall, the most popular parrot species in the larger types that are used for pet parrots are chosen because of their talking abilities.

Parrots make wonderful house pets and if you want a pet that will entertain then a parrot is the answer. They have so many hilarious characteristics and if they are not happy with something they will soon let you know! Parrots are very vocal when it comes to their own needs and comfort. Get several hungry parrots feeding from a food bowl and you will soon know what I mean!

The four most popular larger pet parrot species.

1. African Grey - with lovely shades of grey in its feathers this is a parrot that grows to about 14 inches. This parrot also has either maroon or bright red tail feathers and a touch of the same color at the bend of the wing.

2. Amazon parrot - these parrots come in several colors and are a very loyal parrot. Very popular among them in the parrot owner's world is the yellow headed Amazon parrot

3. Cockatoos - these are a magnificent looking bird, a bird with an attitude! But what fun they are. They are very interactive with their owners, but if upset they can be really destructive.

4. Macaws - what a stunning looking species and those colors! They are just so bright and beautiful. When studying the macaws you are in aw of how something can be created with so much beauty and detail.

These parrots all have excellent talking abilities (though some won't talk unfortunately) and will quite readily learn tricks to entertain. They are active parrots and need to have toys around them so that they can occupy themselves when no-one is around.

It is no mystery that the budgerigar owner would contend that it is one of the most popular species, and in the smaller parrots it probably is, the the four mentioned above are the four top overall contenders.

One feature of the parrot as a pet is that they do groom themselves quite well. They will preen their feathers every day, keeping them shiny, clean and laying flat. All they require from the owner in the way of grooming is a water spray every day or two and the odd trim of the nails. Not much time involved there, is there?

But, that's the upside. The downside is that they will require more time spent on their living apartment. Most do like their cages, but they are not that house proud. Parrots will chew things up and throw them around with quiet (well, sometimes) abandon and expect the owner to clean up their mess. Didn't I say they had attitude!

Have you ever seen a parrot eat from a seed tray? Once their favorite seeds have been husked they will sweep their broad beak through the tray and scatter seeds far and wide in the hope of finding more of their favorite morsel down below. The mess they can make in just a few minutes will make you shake your head.

A very good way to see more about the different types of parrots is to visit a parrot forum where parrot owners discuss the various parrot types and this will give you an insight as to what parrot you may like, and let me tell you, some of the stories are hilarious. Parrots most definitely take their place in the hierarchy of the family unit.

Training Pet Parrots at Home

Training Pet Parrots at Home

Training pet parrots has a lot of benefits, like teaching some simple commands to handle your parrot easier and strengthening the bond with your parrot. It is not only the entertainment when a parrot can talk and do tricks. Of course the success of training parrots process means lots of praise and attention together with favorite treats.

Keep it Positive

It is very important for the success. There are three principles for parrot training:

1. If your parrot does something well--> give him a reward
2. If he does something unwell--> ignore it
3. Never punish your parrot

In training parrots process your goal is simple- if your parrot behaves the proper way, give him a reward like a favorite food treat or a play session and ignore for bad things. Also even a simple praise or a treasured toy are good motivation for some birds. Do not forget to ignore the bird if the parrot is doing something undesirable. A negative reaction is also attention so if your parrot desires your attention he will accept it as a reward. He may think that negative attention is better than no attention. Ignoring is much better decision and the undesirable behavior will stop soon. This bellow is what your approach training has to be in order to keep the process positive:

• Train your bird only when you feel relaxed because the training takes patience!
• Choose a time when your bird is attentive and not distracted by preening, eating, or household activities.
• Short, frequent training sessions like a few minutes at a time divided into several times a day are more effective.
• Pick a particularly favorite reward
• When your bird does something well, don't give a treat every time otherwise your bird will do it if you have a treat handy.
• End every session on a positive way like giving a treat for a good try or a successful attempt, and move on to something else.
• Training sessions should be funny for your bird.

Very Basic Training Parrots: Step Up and Step Down

Choose one or two things to teach your parrot. They could be training your parrot to step up onto your wrist or finger or even a perch which you are holding in your hand on command, and then he has to step back off again. These are easy but important skills to teach. Stepping up on command is generally easy to train as it is a natural movement for a bird (stepping down is a bit more difficult to teach).

If you teach your bird to step up and step down on command it will make handling much easier and you will be able to set some boundaries for your bird. Then you can return the bird back to its play-gym or cage or remove him easily from areas of home that are not bird-proofed. Even if you have a baby bird to start early with the step up and step down commands is still a good idea. It allows you to give lots of positive reinforcement and it is a good foundation for training your parrots into more skills to in the future.

Dogs and Children

Dogs and Children

What goes on in the mind of your dog when there is a new baby in the family? Do you know how your dog will react if a toddler comes up and gives the dog a hug? Bringing a new addition into the household can be a big change for everyone, including the family dog. Introducing a new dog to a family with young children can also be an interesting challenge. Here are some tips to keep in mind when you have dogs and children under the same roof.

As a sensible dog owner and parent, it is your responsibility to be aware of the interactions between your children and the dog to ensure everyone’s safety. Most pets do not pose any threat to infants because there is not a lot of interaction between them. Toddlers are at a much greater risk of getting hurt because they can move about on their own and may not realize that their actions may be hurting or scaring the animal. All dogs should ideally be introduced to children at a young age and continue to be socialized with them. However, even the best socialization will not guarantee that a child cannot be hurt by your pet. That is why adult supervision is so important.

A toddler can be perceived as a threat to your dog as much as a dog may be a danger to your toddler. For example, it is important that children know that it is not right to pull on a dog’s tail because it hurts and it may lead to the dog biting as a result. Many dogs, however, adjust very well to a new addition to the family. It is a good idea to have a separate area or large crate in the same room as the family for the dog to play in without interacting with the baby. This new addition to the family will take up a lot of your time and attention, and your dog will notice that. Ease the dog into the transition by introducing the new area or crate a few weeks before the baby’s arrival. Remember to give your dog the same amount of love and attention as before, because some dogs will become stressed when new changes occur in their environment and they need to be assured that everything is alright.

In preparation for the baby coming home, you can practice obedience skills with your dog. For example, carry around a baby doll and work on the down command to get your dog accustomed to the positions you want him/her to be in while you are holding the infant. Accustom your dog to walk calmly beside the stroller without pulling. Remember, it could take up to several months for your dog to realize that the new baby is a part of the family. Give your dog time to adjust and always supervise. Keep up with the obedience training and ensure the dog continues to get enough attention and exercise.

You do not need to separate the baby and the dog at all times. In fact, it is recommended to teach your dog how to behave appropriately when the baby is present. Letting the dog sniff and interact gently with the baby will help reinforce the fact that this new addition is an important part of the family. Using positive reinforcement, teach your dog to lie quietly nearby when the baby is present. Reward with lots of praise and/or treats when he/she is doing something you like.

Puppies and babies both require a lot of time and care, so it is often recommended that you wait to get a puppy until after your youngest child is old enough to follow instructions and understand that they are capable of hurting the animal. Puppies have a lot of energy and often like to explore and nibble, so they can be a danger to the toddler if they get too excited. When a baby and any dog are together, they should be closely supervised at all times or separated with gates or crates. This prevents both the baby and the dog from being injured and/or frightened.

Most people would agree that we often treat our pets like members of our family. So when it comes to the task of training, socializing and playing with the dog, why not include the entire family? Children of all ages can play an important role in the training of a new puppy.

Children as young as three years of age can help feed and train the puppy while under adult supervision. For example, the dog can be told to sit and stay while the child places the food bowl down. Young children can also toss a toy once a dog has learned to patiently sit and wait for it. During any play session, close supervision is important to prevent the dog from getting too excited or rough. Encourage calm, gentle behaviour in both the child and the dog, using positive reinforcement.

Children aged 5 to 9 can take on responsibilities such as measuring how much food to feed the dog, filling the water bowl, helping with grooming, playing fetch with the dog, or practicing walking the dog in a fenced-in backyard. If you have children of different ages, you can assign an important task to each one so everyone has a responsibility. A young child may not be able to walk the dog on the streets on his/her own in case they come across another strange dog. However, walks can be turned into a fun family outing.

Children aged 10 and older can handle the dog independently (as judged by the parent) and help with the training of the dog. In fact, most children of this age group make wonderful dog trainers because they have the time, patience, and persistence to teach the dog new things. They can also feed, groom, walk, and clean up after the dog. Children of this age can also participate in dog training classes on their own. You can find a kid-friendly training program in your area. You should spend some time and observe a class in progress before registering. Ask if positive methods are being used and see if classes are well-structured and under control by the instructor. The class should focus on the bond between owner and dog and encourage participation from the children. Lots of praise and treats should be used, and misbehaving puppies should be ignored or given more space to work, not punished.

Giving children training tasks and establishing rules when interacting with the dog not only builds the bond between them, but it also helps the children understand the animal and enables them to read their body language. Involving the children in the care of the dog teaches them about what it takes to be a responsible pet owner.

As the child and dog grow older, relationships may change. A young, calm puppy may become rambunctious and easily excitable at 6 to 9 months of age (their ‘teenage years’). A child that was once focused on the care and training of their dog may lose interest in their dog and stop taking responsibility for its care. Parents need to be aware of changes in the relationship and use positive methods to keep the bond strong. By avoiding physical punishment, rewarding good behaviour, and encouraging the entire family to participate in the care of the dog, you and your family will enjoy having a companion for life.

Dogs and Their Anal Sacs

Dogs and Their Anal Sacs

Every dog is unique. Some are star athletes, while others are couch potatoes. Some can fit inside a purse, while others can barely fit in the backseat of a car. Some are cute and cuddly, while others are noble and independent. Whether your dog is fast or slow, big or small, affectionate or aloof, there is one thing that all of our canine companions have in common: although it's not a glorious activity from our human point of view, dogs love to sniff each other’s butts.

Of course it seems crude to us of the human variety, but in the dog world, sniffing another’s rear end is simply a social custom. Not unlike a handshake and introduction, or an exchange of business cards, dogs gain valuable information from sniffing around down there. Each dog has a unique scent that is produced by structures called anal glands (or anal sacs). While many owners aren’t even aware that these glands exist, they play an important role in a dog's social behaviour; dogs use this scent to identify one another, as a form of communication, and as a way to mark their territory.

Anal glands are located just beneath the skin on either side of the anus (at positions 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock). They secrete a foul-smelling liquid which travels through small tubules to openings on either side of the anus. Believe it or not, every time your pet urinates or defecates, a tiny bit of this liquid is released as well, contributing to your dog’s personal fragrance. Similarly, when two dogs meet in the park, the action of raising their tails puts pressure on the anal glands, causing the butt sniffing to start in the first place.

The reason most owners are oblivious to the existence of anal glands, is because most of the time, they don’t cause any problems. For the majority of dogs, anal glands go about their business and express their liquid with each bowel movement and under appropriate social circumstances. However, in some cases, anal glands fail to empty sufficiently and can cause a number of issues for your pet.

The most common problem with anal glands occurs when lack of expression (emptying them) results in impaction. This is extremely uncomfortable for the dog who will usually let his owners know that there is a problem. Typical signs of anal gland impaction include scooting (dragging their rear ends along the ground) or licking/biting at their rear end. Some dogs will also present with loose stools. Fortunately, anal gland impaction can usually be cleared up quickly by your veterinarian. Veterinarians (as well as some breeders and groomers) are proficient at manually expressing anal glands to remove all of the secretion that has built up inside them. Often, one trip to the vet’s office will be enough to relieve your dog’s discomfort, however for other dogs anal gland impaction is an ongoing problem.

There are a variety of reasons why a dog might have trouble expressing its anal glands properly. Sometimes it is simply due to the conformation of the particular dog, or breed of dog. Other times it depends on the thickness of the secretion itself which may be too viscous to express easily. Also, the size and consistency of an animal’s stools can affect anal gland function. Stools which are too small or too soft might not put sufficient pressure on the glands to cause expression. For dogs who are suffering from chronic or recurring anal gland impaction, it is important to make sure they eat a high quality food which is high enough in fibre to ensure large solid stools. In some cases, it is recommended that a dog’s anal glands be surgically removed. This is a fairly simple procedure that can permanently solve the problem.

In addition to anal gland impaction (an uncomfortable, but fairly benign condition), some dogs will also suffer from infections and abscesses of the anal gland. This occurs when bacteria travels from around the anal opening through the tubules to the glands. When this bacteria builds up, serious infections can develop. If left untreated, abscesses can develop fairly quickly. In this case, dogs generally experience pain (as opposed to mere discomfort). Dogs will often present by biting or growling when one tries to touch them anywhere in the general area. Anal gland infections can be treated with antibiotics from your veterinarian. If the infection progresses to the abscess stage however, other complications may arise. It is therefore important to bring your dog to the vet as soon as you notice any signs that might indicate an anal gland problem.

For those dog owners who have never had to deal with an anal gland problem, consider yourselves lucky. As unpleasant as it may be to think about, your dog’s anal glands are as much as part of him as his cute little nose and his fluffy tail. Now that you know they exist, it is important to watch for any signs of anal gland problems in your pet.

Dog Collars

Dog Collars - Dog Leashes

Buying a leash and collar for your pet should be simple, right? Like many things in life that seem simple, choosing a leash and collar is not. There are many different types of dog collars, designed around certain personality or medical needs. There are even special collars for cats! Leashes are usually designed to accommodate the lifestyle of the owner. We will look at different types of collars and leashes in this article.

We’ll first discuss the traditional dog collar. It is usually a piece of sturdy fabric that fastens like a belt. Multiple holes in the collar make it somewhat adjustable in size. This is helpful when you have a growing puppy, because you can just loosen the collar as its neck gets bigger. It is also convenient to have a traditional collar as a place to put the rabies and licensing tags.

There are also traditional collars that have been modified for behaviour reasons. For a long time, choke (also known as slip) collars and collars with spikes on the inside have been used to control unruly animals. These collars were preferred on dogs that continuously pull at their leash. The thought is that a choke or spiked collar would provide one quick instance of pain, and the dog would stop pulling. If this technique works, it is a very successful one. The problem is that many times the dog continues to pull. In these cases the collar may damage the neck or may cause the dog to have trouble breathing. If this is the case you may well be using the collar incorrectly and should stop using it until you get advice from your vet or a trainer.

You may also have heard of barking collars. These can be used on dogs that bark too much. The idea behind these collars is that the collar senses the vibration made when the dog barks. As soon as the dog barks, the collar makes something unpleasant happen. Hopefully the dog will quickly learn that barking is associated with something unpleasant. This unpleasant event is usually either a small shock or a spray of citronella. Interestingly, recent research appears to indicate that the citronella collars are more successful at deterring barking than the shock collars. Never just depend on a barking collar- always make sure to work with your dog to decrease barking in other ways too, such as minimizing stimuli and possibly using dog appeasing pheromones.

Cats can wear traditional collars, too. Many owners like to put their contact information on a cat’s collar, in case their outdoor cat gets lost or runs into trouble. However, due to their exploring nature, some cats can get their collar stuck on an object. If this happens, the cat may be stuck somewhere remote and be unable to leave, or even worse may “hang” itself by the collar if it was caught while jumping. This is why breakaway collars were designed. The buckle on a breakaway collar (which looks similar to a buckle on a fanny pack) will open simply if it is pulled hard enough. Therefore, if your cat gets stuck, the weight of the animal pulling on the collar will open the buckle. This can be a lifesaving event.

An alternative to the traditional dog collar is a harness. Harnesses are also popular with cat owners. There are many different types of harnesses, but in general the idea is to transfer the strain of pulling from the neck to the chest. Harnesses are designed to go under the front legs, across the chest, and the leash attaches along the back, just behind the shoulder blades. Some owners feel that they have better control over their pet with a harness. The two most common uses for a harness are to decrease neck pain and to ease breathing. Harnesses are popular options for animals that have had neck surgery or a slipped disc. They are also very useful for older animals that can have pain from arthritis in their neck joints. It is also recommended to use a harness on any breed of dog that already has trouble breathing (for example: pugs, bulldogs). Traditional collars can exacerbate their breathing difficulties.

The last type of collar we will mention is the ‘Haltie’. A Haltie is designed to allow the owner to gain control of the head. The strap goes behind the ears and over the top of the nose, and the leash attaches underneath the muzzle. If you can picture a horse halter, it is somewhat similar. When the dog pulls on the leash, it causes their head to be pulled to the side. When you have control of the dog’s head, you have more control over their pulling. Halties are very popular for behavioural control.

Once you chose a collar for your dog, you also need to choose a leash. There are two basic types of leashes- the set-length fabric leash and the retractable leash. You can choose a leash designed around your lifestyle and your pet’s exercise routine. Don’t forget to personalize your pet’s collar and leash. Your pet’s collar and leash can support your favourite sports team, celebrate the holidays, or make a statement of style.

Choosing a leash and collar can be fun but confusing. Make sure you choose a collar that works best for your pet. Comfort and control are the most important things to take into consideration when making this decision. Some breeds (such as greyhounds) even have breed-specific collar needs. Make sure you talk to your veterinarian about what collar and leash is right for your pet.

Pet Health Insurance

Pet Health Insurance

Question I've heard that pet health insurance is available. Can you tell me where to find it, is it worth it, how much it costs, etc? Answer The American Animal Hospital Association strongly suggests that all pet owning families assess their financial situation and consider their ability to meet unexpected expenses that may be incurred for veterinary care. For some families, these expenses may be met through existing savings. Others may be able to use credit card reserves or medical payment cards. Some families should consider budgeting for these expenses and still others may want to consider protecting themselves through pet health insurance policies. The American Animal Hospital Association is not affiliated with any pet health insurance company, nor do we have information regarding pet insurance companies, their policies or costs. For those considering pet health insurance, AAHA offers the following suggestions: Be sure you understand what the policy covers. Some policies (but not all) cover some preventative care, such as vaccinations, but there may be additional cost for this coverage. Understand the exclusions. Almost all policies exclude pre-existing conditions and some exclude hereditary conditions. Some may exclude certain conditions unique to certain breeds. Almost all policies have a deductible and a co-pay requirement. Some pay according to a set schedule of “usual and customary fees” while some pay based on the actual incurred expense. Be sure you understand how expenses will be reimbursed. Ask whether or not the policy allows you to seek care from a veterinarian of your own choosing or whether you must go to a veterinarian that participates in the company’s network of providers. When faced with a pet’s serious illness, most pet owners want to be able to obtain care from their regular veterinarian. Speak with your veterinarian or someone on her practice team. While veterinarians do not sell insurance, chances are they have had experience with the policy you are considering and can provide helpful advice.

Flea and Tick Products

What You should Know about Flea and Tick Products

	Reading the labels on flea and tick products can keep your pets and kids safe. © iStock.com

Protecting your dog or cat from fleas and ticks is an important part of responsible pet care.

Although there are many brands of over-the-counter flea and tick products available at supermarkets and pet supply stores, it is critical to read their labels and consult with your veterinarian before using them on your companion. These products may contain ingredients that could harm pets and children.

Recent News

Due to a sharp increase in the number of incidents being reported from the use of spot-on pesticide products for flea and tick control for pets, the Environmental Protection Agency announced in April 2009 that it is intensifying its evaluation of whether further restrictions on the use of these products are necessary to better protect pets.

Recent Studies

The Center For Public Integrity released information on its website for its Perils of the New Pesticides study in 2008. At least 1,600 pet deaths related to spot on treatments with pyrethroids were reported to the EPA over the last five years, according to an analysis of EPA pesticide incident exposure data by the center. Over-the-counter flea and tick products could also pose a threat to human health, according to some experts.

The center reported that pyrethroid spot-ons also account "for more than half of 'major' pesticide pet reactions reported to EPA over the last five years—that is, those incidents involving serious medical reactions such as brain damage, heart attacks, and violent seizures. In contrast, non-pyrethroid spot on treatments accounted for only about 6 percent of all major incidents."

The Center For Public Integrity's study said pyrethroid-based flea and tick treatments are approved for sale by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and they are readily available at grocery stores, specialty pet retailers, and hardware stores, "but they are also linked to thousands of reported pet poisonings, and they have stirred the ire of pet owners, the concern of veterinarians, and the attention of regulatory agencies."

In 2000, the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) released a report called Poisons on Pets: Health Hazards from Flea and Tick Products. The report also demonstrated a link between chemicals commonly used in flea and tick products and serious health problems.

Ear infections

Ear infections are very common in dogs, although less so in cats. Two types are most often seen: otitis externa, infection of the external ear canal, and otitis media, infection of the middle ear. Although any dog or cat can get an ear infection, some breeds appear to be more prone than others. Dogs with pendulous ears, like Cocker Spaniels and Basset Hounds, or dogs with hairy inner ear flaps, like Miniature Poodles and Schnauzers, tend to have a higher occurrence of ear infections. In cats, the Persian breed seems to be more prone to such infections. Most ear infections are easily and successfully treated. But if left untreated, they could result in serious damage. Causes Bacteria or yeast are most often the culprits of otitis externa. Other causes include an accumulation of wax, thick or matted hair in the ear canal, debris, a foreign body, a tumor or impaired drainage of the ear. Sometimes, infections of the external ear canal are a secondary result of some other bodily infection or ear mite infestation. Otitis media usually results from the spread of infection from the external ear canal to the middle ear. Also, foreign bodies, debris, ulceration or improper ear cleaning can rupture the eardrum and allow infection to reach the middle ear. Symptoms Ear infections are very uncomfortable for your pet. Your dog or cat will show his discomfort by shaking his head or scratching at his ears. Often, the ears will become red and inflamed with an offensive odor and perhaps a black or yellowish discharge. If your pet tilts his head constantly, it could be a sign of a middle ear infection. Diagnosis and Treatment Because many different culprits can be the cause of your pet's ear infection, it is important to have your cat or dog examined by a veterinarian, who can then determine the proper medication or treatment. Your veterinarian will also make sure the eardrum is intact, as some medications can result in hearing loss if administered to a pet with a ruptured eardrum. What is involved in an ear exam? Your veterinarian will use an otoscope-an instrument that provides light and magnification-to view the ear canal. He or she will determine whether or not the eardrum is intact and if any foreign material is present. If this is very painful to the pet, sedation or anesthesia may be necessary to complete the exam. Next, your veterinarian will take a sample of the material in the canal and examine it under a microscope. This is called cytology, and allows the doctor to determine the organism causing the infection. If more than one organism are culprits, multiple medications or a broad-spectrum medication is necessary. If your veterinarian finds a foreign body, a tick or a very heavy buildup of debris, sedation will likely be required to remove the irritant or to allow a thorough cleansing. A middle ear infection can be more difficult to clear up. Diagnosis and treatment may include lab tests, X-rays and even surgery. Four to six weeks may pass before the infection disappears, and often during this time you will be told to restrict the activity of your pet. For both types of infection, you should keep water from entering your pet's ears. Follow-up visits to your veterinarian are very important to make sure treatment is working and the infection has disappeared. Remember, the longer infection is present, the harder it is to get rid of it. If an ear infection goes untreated, your pet will continue to be in pain. Your pet's head shaking and scratching can cause further problems, such as broken blood vessels that require surgery to correct. Chronic infections can harm the eardrum and close the ear canal. Surgical reconstruction of the ear canal may then become necessary. Medicating Treatment prescribed by the doctor usually includes administering medication to and cleaning the ears daily for one to two weeks. Remember, your pet's ears are painful, and Fluffy or Fido might not appreciate what you are about to do, so use caution. Ask your veterinarian for a demonstration on how to treat the ears properly. Prognosis Most often, with proper diagnosis and treatment, your pet's ear infection will be cured. However, if ear infections are chronic or recurrent, an underlying problem, such as allergies or thyroid disease, may be the cause. Because cats are normally resistant to ear infections, other problems should be explored. Your cat may have an unusually shaped ear canal, or its immune system could be suppressed. Have your veterinarian test your cat for the feline leukemia virus and feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV), both of which affect the immune system. Also, diabetic cats tend to be prone to ear infections, so testing for diabetes may be indicated. Prevention Pet owners can help their pets avoid ear infections by practicing preventative care at home. This is especially important for those animals that have pendulous ears, have lots of hair in their ears, or have allergies or other medical problems that make them prone to ear infections. A weekly ear cleaning with a veterinarian-recommended ear cleansing solution can minimize or prevent infections. Such a cleaning provides other benefits, as well. "Weekly ear cleanings get the pet owner to really see the ear on a routine basis, allowing him or her to notice any early warning signs of infection," says AAHA veterinarian Dr. LeeAnn Dumars. "And they get the pet used to having its ears handled, making exams and medication administration easier when necessary." In addition to ear cleanings, pets with lots of hair on the inside ear flap should have those hairs plucked periodically by their groomer or veterinarian. "Pet owners with animals that have chronic ear problems must realize that life-long preventative care and maintenance will be necessary to ensure their pet's good health," says Dr. Dumars.

Be a Lifesaver: Your Pet

Be a Lifesaver: Disaster Planning Can Save Your Pet in an Emergency Pet owners should plan ahead to evacuate with their pets during a disaster. Create your pet's disaster kit today. ©istockphoto.com Does anyone really expect, let alone plan for, that one day when their home, vehicle, possessions and all means of communication will suddenly be gone? It happens to many people every year during hurricane and tornado season. No matter where you live, the unexpected can occur. Disasters come in all forms. From blizzards to wildfires, earthquakes to hurricanes, terrorist attacks to floods, emergencies occur in all parts of the country, which means that everyone should have a disaster plan for their family—including one for pets. The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) advocates that residents in coastal areas plan ahead to care for animals if disaster strikes, especially when forecasts call for an above-average hurricane season. you Can (and Should) Take Them With You With pets in more than 60 percent of American households, weathering a disaster requires having a plan that includes them. Be prepared to take pets with you if evacuation orders are issued, The HSUS advises. If it isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for them. If you are ordered to shelter in place, bring your pets inside with you. Pet owners can reduce their animal's chances of being at risk during a disaster by following the suggestions below. Things you can do right now: Put a collar with visible identification on your pets, including indoor only pets. Take pictures of you with your pets for identification purposes. Create a pet emergency kit (see below) and refresh the items every few months. Talk to your neighbors about how they can help your pets if you are not at home when disaster strikes. Create a list of hotels that allow pets. Plan on evacuating about 100 miles inland. Pet emergency kits should include: A three-or-more-day supply of food in airtight, waterproof containers and drinking water. Bowls for food and water (or water bottles if you have small animals like hamsters, guinea pigs or birds). Current photos and physical description of your pets, including details on markings. Medications, vaccination records and first-aid pet supplies. Comfort items such as a toy and blanket. Small garbage bags. For dogs include a leash, harness and a sturdy carrier large enough to use as a sleeping area. For cats include litter and litter box and a sturdy carrier large enough for transport and for your cat to use as a temporary "apartment" for several days. For small animals like birds, guinea pigs, hamsters, ferrets and rabbits, bring a portable cage/carrier and necessary supplies such as bedding/lining for the bottom of the carrier or cage. Horse guardians are equally susceptible to disasters, particularly barn fires. Should I Stay or Should I Go? A Zogby International poll found that 61 percent of pet owners will not evacuate if they cannot bring their pets with them. In 2006, Congress addressed this issue by passing the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards (PETS) Act, which requires state and local emergency management agencies to make plans that take into account the needs of individuals with pets and service animals in the event of a major disaster or emergency.

Allergies to Pets

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Being a pet owner is never easy. While pets bring us joy and companionship on a daily basis, they also require training, veterinary care, time, love, attention, and even tolerance. Tolerance is especially necessary when a pet owner is allergic to his or her companion animal.

Studies show that approximately 15 percent of the population is allergic to dogs or cats. An estimated one-third of Americans who are allergic to cats (about two million people) live with at least one cat in their household anyway. In a study of 341 adults who were allergic to cats or dogs and had been advised by their physicians to give up their pets, only one out of five did. What's more, 122 of them obtained another pet after a previous one had died. It's clear the benefits of pet companionship outweigh the drawbacks of pet allergies for many owners. Living comfortably with a companion animal despite being allergic to him requires a good understanding of the allergic condition and an adherence to a few rules.

ll cats and dogs are allergenic (allergy-causing) to people who are allergic to animals. Cats tend to be more allergenic than dogs for allergic people, although some people are more sensitive to dogs than cats. Contrary to popular belief, there are no "non-allergenic" breeds of dogs or cats; even hairless breeds may be highly allergenic.

Dogs with soft, constantly-growing hair—the Poodle or the Bichon Frise, for example—may be less irritating to some individuals, although this may be because they are bathed and groomed more frequently. One dog or cat of a particular breed may be more irritating to an individual allergy sufferer than another animal of that same breed.

The source of irritation to pet-allergic humans? Glands in the animal's skin secrete tiny allergy-triggering proteins, called allergens, that linger in the animal's fur but also float easily in the air. Allergens are present in the animal's saliva and urine, too, and may become airborne when saliva dries on the fur. The severity of reaction to these allergens varies from one person to the next, ranging from mild sniffling and sneezing to life-threatening asthma, and can be complicated by simultaneous allergies to other irritants in the environment.

If your or a family member's allergies are simply miserable, but not life-threatening, take these steps to reduce the symptoms:

• Create an "allergy free" zone in the home—preferably the bedroom—and strictly prohibit the pet's access to it. Use a high-efficiency HEPA air cleaner (available at almost any home and garden store or discount department store) in the bedroom. Consider using impermeable covers for the mattress and pillows because allergen particles brought into the room on clothes and other objects can accumulate in them.

• Use HEPA air cleaners throughout the rest of the home, and avoid dust-and-dander-catching furnishings such as cloth curtains and blinds and carpeted floors. Clean frequently and thoroughly to remove dust and dander, washing articles such as couch covers and pillows, curtains, and pet beds. Use a "microfilter" bag in the vacuum cleaner to effectively catch all the allergens.

• Bathing your pet on a weekly basis can reduce the level of allergens on fur by as much as 84 percent. Although products are available that claim to reduce pet allergens when sprayed on the animal's fur, studies show they are less effective than a weekly bath. Even cats can become accustomed to being bathed; check with your veterinarian's staff or a good book on pet care for directions about how to do this properly, and use whatever shampoo your veterinarian recommends.

• Don't be quick to blame the family pet for allergies. Ask your allergist to specifically test for allergies to pet dander, rather than making an assumption. And understand that allergies are cumulative. Many allergy sufferers are sensitive to more than one allergen. So if you're allergic to dust, insecticides, pollen, cigarette smoke, and cat dander, you'll need to reduce the overall allergen level in your environment by concentrating on all of the causes, not just the pet allergy. For example, you may need to step up measures to remove cat dander from your home and carefully avoid cigarette smoke during spring, when it is difficult to avoid exposure to pollen.

• Immunotherapy (allergy shots) can improve symptoms but cannot eliminate them entirely. They work by gradually desensitizing a person's immune system to the pet allergens. Allergy-causing proteins are injected under the person's skin, triggering the body to produce antibodies (protective proteins) which block the pet allergen from causing a reaction. Patients are usually given one dose per week for a few weeks to months (depending on the severity of the allergy) and then can often manage with one injection per month.

• Additional treatments for allergies to pets are symptomatic, including steroidal and antihistamine nose sprays and antihistamine pills. For asthma, there are multiple medications, sprays, and inhalers available. It is important to find an allergist who understands your commitment to living with your pet. A combination of approaches—medical control of symptoms, good housecleaning methods, and immunotherapy—is most likely to succeed in allowing an allergic person to live with pets.

Of course, if you do not currently have a pet and are considering one, and know you are pet-allergic, be sure to consider carefully whether you can live with the allergy before you bring a new pet home. Except in the case of children, who sometimes outgrow allergies, few allergy sufferers become accustomed to pets to whom they are allergic. Too many allergic owners obtain pets without thinking through the difficulties of living with them. And too often, they end up relinquishing pets, a decision that is difficult for the owner and can be life-threatening for the pet.